On your first trip to The Grey, pause outside so you can appreciate the restored glory of the Streamline Moderne architecture of the old Greyhound depot at 109 Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.
There are beautiful curves to the exterior wall and to the windows through which Greyhound patrons would have watched the bustle of what was then West Broad Street.
Take a second and feel the Vitrolite glass on the exterior walls and enjoy the view of the diners and drinkers in the beautifully lit bar.
Once you get inside and see the main dining room in the old waiting area, you’ll see all sorts of architectural elements and design nuances that are worth appreciating, including the U-shaped bar that is at the perfect height, the lovely banquettes and the private dining room upstairs, which has a spectacular view into the main space.
A tip of the hat to owner John Morisano for his commitment to the preservation and the rehabilitation of such an important building.
At some point, however, even as you’re still gushing about the interior, you’ll remember that you’re not at The Grey for the beauty alone. You’re there for supper.
I’ve been thrilled with what I’ve tried so far out of Chef Mashama Bailey’s kitchen. Bailey has southern roots but has spent much of her career working with Gabrielle Hamilton at the acclaimed restaurant Prune in New York City’s East Village.
Many of Bailey’s dishes are bold and simple — each of the menu items is described with only a few words — and one gets the sense that her kitchen will spring plenty of surprises in the years ahead.
One of the things I like best about The Grey is that patrons can have a variety of dining experiences. The menu is divided into starters, middles, mains and sides, but you can attack it however you want.
There are also a number of varieties of raw oysters available each night. You have to order a minimum of six, but you can mix and match. If they have the Shigoku oysters when you’re there, they are worth the money. Trust me.
Seats in the front room are first-come, first-served, and there’s a more casual, less expensive menu than in the main dining room, where reservations are highly recommended.
My first visit was during The Grey’s very soft opening. I went by myself and sat at the back bar — my favorite space in the restaurant.
But a friend of mine was there on her own, so we enjoyed our meal together, sharing a number of items.
I’m sure there will be many romantic dinners at The Grey, but the openness of the space means that Savannahians will almost certainly see people they know. There were lots of familiar faces on all of my trips, including some folks who frequented Café Metropole when it occupied the building over a decade ago. On that first visit, we split several dishes — smoked pulled pork served with some scrumptious buns, plus large sides of collards and roasted beets. A couple of people can eat really well at The Grey for about $20 each, before drinks, by sharing smaller plates.
Drinks obviously add to the cost, as they do anywhere. The Grey offers an intriguing list of craft cocktails, has an extensive wine menu and boasts a well-stocked bar.
On my second trip, friends and I snagged a booth in front and discovered that the egg pie and the chicken schnitzel sandwich are flat out fantastic.
For my third visit, a friend and I reserved seats at the bar in the main dining room and tried the main dishes, which are mostly priced $25 and up. The star of that meal was the braised eel entrée, which is served in a large bowl with vegetables such as cabbage and tomato.
My dinner companion immediately described the eel as “Italian comfort food.” We later learned that the dish had been inspired by cuisine in Comacchio, an Italian city south of Venice that even has an annual eel festival.
The co-star of that meal was the seafood boudin starter — something I might order on every visit. I’d love to see Chef Bailey include those New Orleans flavors in other dishes.
As the weather warms up, The Grey will have the option of opening up the space and serving diners outside, where the buses loaded and unloaded passengers. There are plans for oyster roasts, pig roasts and similar events outside, too.
It’s going to be fun to see how The Grey evolves.
City Talk appears every Tuesday and Sunday. Bill Dawers can be reached via billdawers@comcast.net. Send mail to 10 East 32nd St., Savannah, Ga. 31401.